I accept replaced hundreds of windows in brick-veneer homes across Long Island. The coastal environment requires a little extra care, but the procedure is essentially the same for whatsoever climate. The catchy part with brick is getting the flashing in the right place.

With about window replacement jobs, the ideal installation requires the removal of the siding, which allows the window to exist integrated with the existing weather-resistive barrier (WRB). In a brick-veneer structure, even so, that'southward not and so easy. Removing aged brick and mortar to access the window is certain to exist noticed long after the job is done. The additional cost associated with surgical removal and the painstaking process of matching new brick and mortar is often prohibitive to near clients. And so I resort to the methods described here. The procedures are a compromise, simply they're a lot amend than leaving an old drafty, leaky window

The key to a flawless window replacement in a brick-veneer wall is sizing the new window properly. The replacement unit must be small enough to fit through the existing brick opening without having to dismantle the brick and mortar, but large enough to minimize the unsupported flashing and allow the new unit to be inconspicuously trimmed out.
The cardinal to a flawless window replacement in a brick-veneer wall is sizing the new window properly. The replacement unit must be small plenty to fit through the existing brick opening without having to dismantle the brick and mortar, but large enough to minimize the unsupported flashing and allow the new unit to exist inconspicuously trimmed out.

Measurement Is Key

The selection of the proper window is the primary consideration in this surround. I prefer to use a "prime" window. One I utilize a lot is the Andersen replacement window; it can be custom sized to fit the openings perfectly, which makes all the difference. Merely any high-quality window with a nailing flange system will work if you tin get the correct size for the existing openings.

Pay attending to measuring for the new window. When the window opening is in place, the flange will be secured to the framed wall and will exist recessed into the brick opening. To ensure a watertight installation, you demand plenty room to integrate the flashing with the existing WRB.

There are 2 measurements of concern here: the rough opening (RO) and the brick opening (BO). The RO is the interior dimension of the framed wall opening. This is the opening we are most familiar with when installing windows in a framed wall. The BO, on the outside, must be big plenty to requite us room to maneuver with our flashing effectually the new window. This space will get covered with an outside brick mold once the new window is in place.

The window should be sized to fit in a rough opening (RO) in the framed wall that's at least 11/4 to 11/2 inches smaller than the brick opening (BO). Ideally, this BO would also be 2 inches higher than the RO to allow room at the head and sill, but the window can still be made to fit through a smaller BO if the bottom flange is removed before it's installed.
The window should be sized to fit in a rough opening (RO) in the framed wall that's at least 11/4 to 11/ii inches smaller than the brick opening (BO). Ideally, this BO would also be 2 inches higher than the RO to allow room at the head and sill, simply the window can all the same be made to fit through a smaller BO if the bottom flange is removed earlier it'southward installed.

If we're lucky plenty that the existing window has a wood-frame window with a brick-mold exterior trim, the existing RO can normally be used to order the new window. The old brick mold provides the room we need to integrate the flashing. Simply nigh of the applications I meet involve onetime metallic-frame windows (usually steel or aluminum) that were mounted to the RO prior to the application of the brick veneer. The edges of the window typically come up right to the edge of the BO, and the flanges are buried backside the brick. Steel-frame double-hungs, which have a spring mechanism cached in the jambs, have an even larger RO. In whatsoever of these cases, nosotros tin can't use the existing RO to order new windows.

Instead, I starting time mensurate the BO from the outside, so open the window and reference the available RO to the BO. The window should fit in the BO with enough room to allow at least ane i/four to 1 1/2 inches on both sides of the window and a minimum of 3/4 inch on the acme. It may be necessary to pack out the old RO to create an opening that is this much smaller than the BO. Ideally, I like to have two inches on the bottom, too, but I rarely get that and will settle for less if necessary.

Integrating New Flashing and the Existing WRB

Nigh every job I have done has had No. xxx felt or building paper over the framed walls as a WRB. When removing the old window, intendance must be taken to preserve the integrity of this existing WRB. Afterward a number of years it tin become dry and brittle, so we accept to be gentle to continue from tearing it upwards when working the opening.

In one case the former window is out, we focus our attention on preparing the opening, using a metallic sill pan and flexible flashing, as outlined. It'due south of import to use a sill pan that gives y'all an upturned edge on the inside to cake water draining to the interior, and to lap the flashing over the pan so water draining from higher up will be caught by the sill pan.

Step 1: Install flashing tape over the RO sill. Let approximately 2 to 3 inches of the flashing lap over the brick sill. Then, using a taping knife, push the flashing down between the brick and the existing WRB.
Step one: Install flashing tape over the RO sill. Permit approximately 2 to iii inches of the flashing lap over the brick sill. And then, using a taping knife, push button the flashing down between the brick and the existing WRB.
Step 2: Install a mechanical sill pan over the flashing tape. The author prefers a metal pan — copper or (better yet) lead-coated copper. Even vinyl will suffice, as long as it will keep the water flowing to the outside. This pan should have a turned-up edge on the inside to create a dam to prevent water flowing inside and a turned-down edge on the outside.Step 3: Cover the side jambs of the RO with two strips of flashing tape. To do this, the author first slits the paper on the back-side cut about 2 inches from one edge, then peels off the backer on the wide side, using the exposed tape to cover the RO jambs. This leaves the 2-inch section to stand straight out of the opening. The author then peels off the remaining backer paper and uses a taping knife to push the tape back behind the brick, where it can adhere to the WRB
Step 2: Install a mechanical sill pan over the flashing tape. The author prefers a metallic pan — copper or (amend nonetheless) lead-coated copper. Even vinyl will suffice, as long as it will continue the water flowing to the exterior. This pan should have a turned-up edge on the within to create a dam to prevent h2o flowing inside and a turned-downwards border on the outside.

Pace 3: Cover the side jambs of the RO with 2 strips of flashing tape. To do this, the author kickoff slits the newspaper on the back-side cut about 2 inches from one border, and so peels off the capitalist on the wide side, using the exposed tape to cover the RO jambs. This leaves the 2-inch department to stand straight out of the opening. The author then peels off the remaining backer paper and uses a taping knife to push button the tape back behind the brick, where it tin can attach to the WRB
Step 4: Here is the tricky part. Fabricate a top flashing that will slip behind the existing WRB, and go over the top of the new window, allowing for any trim that may be installed. Using a taping knife, carefully work the WRB away from the sheathing. The goal is to separate it from any fasteners without tearing it up. Once this is done, slip the flashing between the WRB and the sheathing. You may need to use some flashing tape to hold this in place.
Step 4: Here is the tricky role. Fabricate a peak flashing that will skid behind the existing WRB, and get over the summit of the new window, allowing for whatsoever trim that may exist installed. Using a taping knife, carefully piece of work the WRB away from the sheathing. The goal is to split it from any fasteners without vehement it up. Once this is washed, slip the flashing between the WRB and the sheathing. Yous may need to use some flashing tape to hold this in identify.
Alternative Side Flashing If flexible flashing can't be pushed behind the brick at the sides of the window opening, the author bends four copper or aluminum L-strips to use as side flashing instead. To install these, he starts with the bottom piece, which is as long as at least half of the height of the window and has a flap that allows the end to slide down below the sill height. The second piece extends to the head, with a flap that reaches about 2 inches above the window opening and is long enough to lap over the first piece installed.
Alternative Side Flashing If flexible flashing tin can't be pushed behind the brick at the sides of the window opening, the author bends iv copper or aluminum 50-strips to apply every bit side flashing instead. To install these, he starts with the bottom piece, which is as long as at to the lowest degree half of the meridian of the window and has a flap that allows the end to slide down below the sill height. The 2nd piece extends to the head, with a flap that reaches nearly 2 inches to a higher place the window opening and is long enough to lap over the commencement piece installed.
The author uses a metal brake to form a copper pan. All windows eventually leak, but the pan will capture the water and allow it to drain to the exterior.
The author uses a metal brake to form a copper pan. All windows eventually leak, only the pan volition capture the h2o and permit it to drain to the exterior.
The inside of the pan should have an upturned edge to prevent the water from draining to the interior, and the side flashings should lap over the ends of the pan.
The inside of the pan should have an upturned edge to foreclose the h2o from draining to the interior, and the side flashings should lap over the ends of the pan.

In some cases, however, in that location is not enough of a space behind the brick to push button the flashing record back there. Or, the mortar that squeezed out on the back side of the brick has clogged the space. This squeeze out may be chipped away at the edges, just if it'south really heavy, even that won't exist plenty to provide clearance for flexible tape. In this example, I bend iv aluminum or copper 50-shaped strips, as shown. At a minimum, the legs of these 50-strips should exist 2 inches, simply a 3- to 4-inch leg is preferable. Call back: The farther the h2o is deflected by the flashing from the border of the BO, where the almost water is probable to get blown in, the less likely the water will find its way dorsum into the RO every bit it drains downwardly the wall.

Installing the Window

Once the sides and the sill accept been wrapped, it'south time to install the window. If the BO is tight, nosotros may demand to trim back the window flanges. I often have to completely remove the bottom flange to get the window in, every bit well. A jigsaw works for trimming off a formed vinyl flange. On some windows, it's possible to pull the flange extrusion out of the frame, or it may require careful trimming with snips and a utility knife.

When installing the window, kickoff apply caulking to the top and two side flanges. Without a bottom flange, we don't need caulk there. But even when we have an intact nailing flange, nosotros never caulk the bottom of a window. If water leaks through the windows, information technology must be able to bleed out.

Shim and foursquare the window, and cheque it for proper operation. In coastal zones, impact-resistant units usually must be installed with framing clips, as shown. This really simplifies the installation, since the nailing flanges may be hard to get to, specially at the top. If the window manufacturer does not offer special metal clips for this purpose, I use a 20-gauge metal necktie plate, such as a Simpson Stiff-Tie TP15 or TP35, screwed to the window first and and then folded over at the inside edge of the stud. If you're unsure what the local codes require in high-current of air zones, it's prudent to check with the lawmaking inspector start to make sure this will piece of work.

After the window is in place, I cream the gap between the window and the RO with a low-expanding cream to create an effective air seal (see "Building Science Nuts").

Last Flash

With the window installed, I go back outside and apply flashing record over the flange. This can be difficult if the BO is tight. If possible, I push the record behind the brick. Nevertheless, if at that place is not plenty room to get this last flashing backside the brick, I'll go out it long, allowing it to flap aslope the brick (Figure 6). Then, after I install the brick mold (or other trim to fill out the masonry opening), I will trim this backlog away and caulk the trim to the masonry at the sides and bottom of the BO. Across the head, though, I leave gaps in the caulk to allow any water that might become by the brick above to escape. Nigh brick veneer should also take cry holes in a higher place the lintel for exactly this purpose.

The last but often most difficult step is flashing over the window flanges before the brick mold goes on. If there's not enough room to slip this flashing behind, the author will lap the flashing tape onto the brick, and trim off the excess once the trim is installed.
The last but often most difficult step is flashing over the window flanges earlier the brick mold goes on. If in that location's not enough room to skid this flashing behind, the author volition lap the flashing record onto the brick, and trim off the excess once the trim is installed.

Photos by the author and his crew. Illustrations by Chuck Lockhart.